Gadget Wisdom - Eco-Tech

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After writing about a dual flush retrofit kit, we became enthused about the idea of installing one of these ourselves. We don’t have a plumber on staff, so our intrepid editor was forced to play with his own toilet. Please excuse if our terminology falls short as we try to explain basic toilet technology.

Our toilet is a 1.6 Gallon model installed around 2000. A traditional toilet uses a simple system. The ballcock floats on top of the water. when the tank is emptied, the ballcock lowers, thus activating the fill valve until the ballcock is lifted up to the off position by the water. The fill valve on this toilet was replaced with a newer, more reliable design, the concentric-float fill valve, and thus there is no ballcock. The concentric design is required for this retrofit kit.

The model is the MJSI HYR270 HydroRight Drop-In Dual Flush Converter, purchased at a local Home Depot. The nice thing about this design is that it does not require removal of the toilet tank to install. If you have to go as far as to remove the toilet tank, you might as well buy a new toilet with integrated dual flush, which we recommend if you have a really old toilet.

If you need to replace your fill valve with a concentric float one, which as mentioned is required, MJSI makes an adjustable one that can also help you save water, and sometimes it is better to get components from the same manufacturer, as you can be reasonably certain they work together.

As you can see in the image, this toilet has a typical flapper. The flapper is a rubber stopper that is connected to the handle by a chain. When you press the handle, it pulls up, allowing water to empty from tank to bowl. For this retrofit, we will be replacing the flapper with the retrofit unit.

Installation was surprisingly easy. First we shut off the water and drained the tank. Then we removed the handle and the flapper and set them inside in case the mechanism did not work. The retrofit mechanism slips in place of the flapper and is a tall unit, so you need sufficient clearance. It is then secured with a zip tie in the back to the overflow tube. The overflow tube is next to the drain(where the flapper is normally inserted), and serves the purpose of preventing the tank from overflowing.

A button is then inserted into the hole where the handle once was, and attached to the control box, which is connected to the retrofit unit by a blue cable(as pictured)

Then, after following some calibration tests, your toilet is ready to be more water efficient. Fun, huh? The actual installation only took about twenty minutes, and we’re sure it would be faster the second time. We’ve given some time to test and the toilet is running without problem. The button mechanism has a low flush for liquid waste and a high flush for solid waste.

The only problem is making sure guest know how to properly use the new mechanism, but that is fairly easy to explain. So, for less than thirty dollars, we’ve committed to water savings, efficiency…and it makes for an interesting conversation piece.

Any questions?

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• Converting Your Toilet to Dual Flush (ecotech.gadgetwisdom.com)

We love the idea of LED lightbulbs. Like so many technologies, CFLs just started to get good, and adopted by the mainstream when the latest thing comes. LED lightbulbs last over ten times longer, use less electricity, and…are dim. Very very dim.

We can’t even find equivalency on most LED bulb packages we’ve seen. We’re used to CFLs being categorized as the equivalent of a specific watt incandescent. Those stats are suspiciously missing from LED packaging. They use the more accurate lumens…but how many people have a sense of what a lumen is?

We checked the lumens on a  CFL and compared them to the LED and found it…again. DIM.

The New York Times reports that Osram Sylvania’s  Ultra bulb, available in August, and Philips’s EnduraLED, which will be in stores in the fourth quarter, will use just 12 watts of power to equal the light output of a 60-watt bulb. The 60-watt bulb is the standard of light bulbs.

The prices for these bulbs will be $30-$60…and hopefully in 2 or 3 years, down to $20, which is more expensive than a CFL bulb…but it does last ten times longer, uses less electricity, and doesn’t have some of the CFL issues, such as mercury usage.

Perhaps we’re skeptical, but we’ll believe it when we see it. We’ll gladly be early adopters, and hope LED bulbs get to where we’d invest.

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Last time, we discussed the simple and easy to implement technologies of Occupancy Sensors and Countdown Timers to control lights. After we posted it, we missed one simple and overlooked item we use. Nightlights.

We’re not talking about lights that are kept on so small children are not afraid of the dark. We use nightlights to avoid tripping over something or falling down the stairs in the middle of the night. The simplest is a dim light embedded in the light switch, so it can be seen in the middle of the night. So, how can we save power by keeping lights on?

It is a matter of tendency. We know many people who leave their hall lights on all night. Nightlights are also the most popular use of the currently most energy efficient bulbs, the LED. They aren’t quite ready for primetime, due to their high cost in these forms, but they have come into their own for functions like undercabinet lighting and nightlights.

The second part of the equation is the light sensor. Like the motion sensor we motioned earlier, the light sensor turns on the light when the room, or the outside is dark. This is often used for outside lighting, and for nightlights, but you can, in theory, hook it up to any light.

By putting these sensors together with the countdown timers and occupancy sensors, you can start planning a setup for your home. Next time, we’ll begin talking about advanced light control systems and home automation. Admittedly, such systems are not cheap. Occupancy sesnsors and such are less expensive, but still require investment for a whole home plan.

Writing this post has inspired us to add more of these simple technologies to our own residence. We have been experimenting with home automation for years, but there are definitely issues, especially the cost. We’ll address this more in the next part of our series.

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Lifehacker posted an article today about how to convert a toilet to dual flush, and we thought it was worth reposting.

We didn’t know you could retrofit an existing toilet for only a few dollars. For those of you who don’t know, a dual flush toilet offers two levels of flush. This could reduce your water bill significantly, as, to put it as succinctly as possible, liquid waste requires less flushing than solid waste. A regular toilet would use the same amount regardless.

A conversion unit could cost as low as $25-$30. Sounds like a project we might try in the future.

• Convert Your Toilet to Dual Flush (Lifehacker)
• $25 Conversion Kit at Ace Hardware

In the 70s, President Jimmy Carter told America it was time to turn off their lights. Not making this a political blog and discussing Carter overall, Jimmy Carter’s comments on energy are exactly what people are prioritizing today. Turning things off when they aren’t in use makes financial sense. Energy costs money, so why waste it?

We know someone who thinks Global Warming and such are a crock, but even they are pro energy efficiency for financial reasons. So, whether you are in it for the money, or the loftier planet-saving, or something in between, wasting less energy seems like a good thing. We have previously discussed energy saving power strips that shut things off when not in us(link).

Now, we’re going to cover some other switch types for shutting off your power. We’re focusing on lights, but there are other things that can be hooked up to such switches.

Let’s start with countdown timers. We use a countdown timer for the bathroom exhaust fan…which is coincidentally a good way to time limit your showers. You press a button, and the light/fan/etc is on for a period of time. The one we use has 10-20-30-60 minute buttons. Where can this feature be used to good effect elsewhere?

The other equivalent option is the occupancy sensor. It detects movement in the room. These things are often made fun of, because if you stay too still for a period of time, they tend to turn off. But as long as you move regularly, it should be fine. Positioning is important though, as the sensors have defined range.

These two options are the cheapest way, other than remembering to flick the switch, to turn off your lights. Sure, it costs money to get them…but remember the reward. Stay tuned.

Tonight, we upgraded an old computer we use as a secondary MythTV combined backend and a frontend. It is currently the only computer we use ACPI Wakeup on, so we spent some time resetting this feature.

There are three basic Wakeup Types that are useful for computers nowadays.

• Wake on LAN – Wake the computer up in response to a signal over the network.
• Wake on USB – Wake the computer up in response to a USB signal
• Wake on Alarm – Set a time for the computer to wake up

So, how can we leverage this into power-savings and efficiency? By having the computer turn itself off when it isn’t in use. We’ve been using it in cooperation with our TV recording schedule. Computer starts up, records, sets a wakeup for the next time, then shuts down.

But after that, what can we do with this? Wake on LAN allows the computer to be tripped into an active state over a network. Wake on USB would allow us to activate the computer with a USB remote control or other USB communications device, such as a sensor.

The feature is built into every current computer. So, why around we using it? We didn’t even get to the discussion of Suspend to RAM and Hibernate, two features that either save the system state to the hard drive or keep the system on minimal power to keep data in the RAM, which offer additional options.

So, why aren’t you using the power-saving functions of your computer?

Image via Wikipedia

The new EnergyStar 3.0 TV specification went into effect November 1st. It includes a test for how much electricity televisions use when turned on, as well as when turned off. Even the default settings could save as much as $100 in power.

Keep it in mind when you buy new televisions. For those of us with old ones, consider turning things off.

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Image by _ES via Flickr

This past week, prompted by increased utility costs, we became obsessed with the idea of vampire power. Vampire power, standby power, or phantom power, whatever you wish to call it, is the power a device draws when supposedly turned off.

So, we did the research. If you like tech, and we do, you can go with a Master Control surge protector. This is where the power draw on one outlet kicks in the power to other outlets. For top of the line right now, you can go with the APC Back-UPS ES BE750G 10 Outlet 750VA Master Control.

We rushed out and bought one of these things, which marries the idea with a UPS. One of the Battery controlled outlets can have your computer plugged into it, and when the computer is on, it flicks on three of the surge controlled outlets. We’re using it for our monitor and speakers on one system, and will be adding more to the controlled outlets as soon as we crawl under the desk to audit our wires.

Now, not everyone needs such a heavy-duty item, or even power protection. As an alternative, there is the Smart Strip LCG3. There are several variations that offer different numbers of outlets and/or coaxial or modem surge protection. One of the most useful options on this surge strip is a adjustment knob to adjust the master outlet’s sensitivity. The APC UPS also has three adjustment settings.

We couldn’t wait, so we went to the store and bought the APC Power-Saving Essential Surgearrest. It is that adjustment knob we missed. On the system we tried to put it on, it didn’t accurately detect the turning on of our low-energy thin-client PC. Of course, it may not have been designed for low-power systems, and lacks the adjustment knob of the Smart Strips.

BITS Limited, the company responsible for the Smart Strips, has not only come out with a 3rd generation version of their product designed with a “greater range of sensitivity and device compatibility for low-power devices like the Dell 800 series laptops and Mac Mini computers.” Which means it would have solved our problem with the APC. They all are accepting initial orders on a USB Smart Strip, identical to the LCG3 model shown above except in addition to the power outlet, this one will switch when the USB port receives power as well.

Being as we run multiple systems and are trying to be more energy efficient, for the low-power client and its peripherals we decided to go the low-tech route. We tried to find a switch to insert between the peripheral and the outlet, but no one seems to make three-pronged plug-in switches. So, despite Underwriter’s Laboratories’ recommendations about daisy-chaining surge protectors, we took the advice we found from Smart Strips FAQ and plugged a power strip into our UPS and then on to the components in question.

This is technically safe, as long as you don’t overload the circuit. The same people think an extension cord to a surge protector is dangerous and most of us do that. Our biggest problem was of a visual nature. How do you make the switch accessible without the unsightliness of the wires coming out in all directions?

One solution is another new product, the Belkin Conserve 10-Outlet Surge Protector with Remote Switch. Sounds good in theory. A surge protector you conceal with a wireless remote to allow you to turn things on. There are also all manner of surge protectors that hide the wiring.

We, on the other hand, went low-tech. We mounted the surge protector on the wall such that the switch was visible above the desk, but the outlets were below and weren’t visible unless you peeked under. Another option we considered was mounting the strip upside-down under the desk in such a position that you can flick the switch with little effort.

If you are more electrically inclined, you can build a plug-in switch using some basic electronics since no one seems to be selling one(comment if you’ve found one).

For those on the cutting edge of tech, semiconductor maker Rohm has developed a circuit that uses no power while in standby mode. They hope to start deploying it next year. In a few years, it could make it or circuits like it could make its way into most new appliances sold, reducing or eliminating the bulk of this problem.

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Compact Fluorescent Lightbulbs are one of those simple things we’re now encouraged to do to save money. However, they contain mercury and must be recycled. Until recently, in most municipalities, it was not easy to do that.

Then Home Depot came along and announced they would accept these lightbulbs for recycling. Happy day. Except the last two times we’ve delivered old bulbs to Home Depot, no one seems to know the procedure. We went to their desk, and the clerks there just took the bulb and left it there. We worry they are just dumping it in their garbage. We’d feel better if we at least saw a bin.

Does anyone have any evidence the agents at these stores are recycling these items? The same goes for Staples and other stores which take in spent batteries. and electronics. We’ll just wait for someone to do an expose.